Hiking and cycling escapades Voyages inside Portugal

Five days alone hiking the Fishermen’s Trail

Posted on by Jules & Verne
Reading time 7 minutes

The old fisherman was the first person I had seen all day. He faced the ocean, but somehow sensed he was no longer alone and turned back. I ventured a head nod, to which he curtly responded before going back to his thoughts. I turned back too, but there was nothing there apart from the long winding path that had guided me down the cliffs and onto the shore. Ahead of me, the sandy beach extended as far as I could see, before disappearing behind the morning mist.

Near Porto Covo, Portugal (16mm, 1/400s, f9, ISO 200)
The old fisherman near Porto Covo, Portugal (16mm, 1/350s, f8, ISO 200)
Near Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal (16mm, 1/3800s, f2.8, ISO 200)

I spent five days hiking the Fishermen’s Trail, a 180km (110 miles) track that follows Portugal’s southwestern Atlantic coastline from Porto Covo to Cape St. Vincent, the end of the known world in the 15th century, before Europeans began their maritime expansion. Along the way, the trail goes by some of Portugal’s most stunning coastal towns, including Vila Nova de Milfontes, Almograve, Zambujeira do Mar, Odeceixe, Aljezur, Carrapateira and Sagres.

The 5-day itinerary: Porto Covo -> Almograve -> Odeceixe -> Aljezur -> Carrapateira -> Sagres
Verne on the Fishermen’s Trail
Verne on the Fishermen’s Trail
Verne takes a selfie near Odeceixe, Portugal (16mm, 1/180s, f5.6, ISO 200)

The trail is mostly made up of narrow and winding paths used by local fishermen to access the ocean cliffs. The number of fishermen has slowly dwindled but the paths are still there. In some places, where the coastline is too jagged to access even on foot, the trail dives deeper into mainland, snaking through hills and valleys. There is less sand and wind to fight through, but the steep ascents and rocky descents make these sections no less of a challenge.

Trail markings near Almograve, Portugal (18mm, 1/950s, f3.5, ISO 200)
Trail markings near Vila do Bispo (16mm, 1/14400s, f2.2, ISO 200)
Trail markings near Rogil, Portugal (16mm, 1/12800s, f1.4, ISO 200)
Near Odeceixe, Portugal (2-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/420s, f7.1, ISO 200)

Apart from the raw beauty of these landscapes, sometimes difficult to capture in pictures, there was one other common theme for these 180km: seclusion. In the eight or nine hours I spent walking each day, I rarely crossed paths with more than four or five other human beings.

After: Sunset at Arrifana beach, Portugal (16mm, 1/150s, f5, ISO 200, PPL1-Corrected)
Odeceixe Beach at sunset (16mm, 1/140s, f2, ISO 200)
Sunset at Carrapateira, Portugal (composite image, 16mm, 1/110s & 1/150s, f1.4 & f2.5, ISO 200)
Sunset at Porto Covo’s beach, Portugal (16mm, 1/420s, f7.1, ISO 200)
Sunset at Carrapateira, Portugal (2-picture panorama, 35mm, 1/125s, f3.2, ISO 200)

Some of you will surely cringe at the idea of spending so much time in isolation, no matter how astonishing the scenery is. Others will be drawn to the idea that there are still such faraway places in Europe. I write this for all of you: to the former, hoping that I can transmit some of the beauty I’ve witnessed; to the latter, as an invitation to do the same.

Pessegueiro Fort near Porto Covo, Portugal (16mm, 1/400s, f6.4, ISO 200)
Fishing boats on a cove near Almograve, Portugal (composite image, 16mm, 1/125s & 1/400s, f5.6 & f6.4, ISO 200)
Amália beach, hidden halfway between Zambujeira do Mar and Odeceixe, Portugal (3-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/420s, f8, ISO 200)

But let me first manage your expectations: I exited the trail no wiser than I entered it. As Jules and I had already realised when we did our round-the-world trip, plucking yourself from a daily routine is no sure recipe for spiritual enlightenment, intellectual Eureka or physical atonement.

Irrigation canal near Rogil, Portugal (16mm, 1/400s, f7.1, ISO 200)
Irrigation canal near Maria Vinagre, Portugal (16mm, 1/450s, f5.6, ISO 200)
The Seixe river, near Odeceixe, Portugal (2-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/420s, f6.4, ISO 200)

I did however learn something very useful. As most introverts, I enjoy being alone. More than a pleasure, moments of solitude have evolved into a necessity as I grow older. Apparently though there’s a time limit for these moments. You know that feeling of waking up in the middle of the night, troubled by some mundane problem blown out of proportion? After walking for several hours without seeing anybody, I would sometimes find myself in a similar state. Without human interaction to snatch me back from my thoughts, my subconscious would take over.

Porto Covo’s beach, Portugal (4-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/160s, f5.6, ISO 200)
Watery trail, Almograve, Portugal (16mm, 1/240s, f5.6, ISO 200)
Beach access near Zambujeira do Mar, Portugal (18mm, 1/400s, f9, ISO 200)
Bordeira beach, Carrapateira, Portugal (2-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/250s, f5.6, ISO 200)

So, against all my expectations, those four or five daily fleeting moments of interaction with others became something to look forward to. We would rarely exchange more than a couple of words, but those were enough for me to imagine an intricate character. Mr. Alberts, a British retired clerk following the same sandy path he and his wife – just recently passed away – took many years ago. João, a young fisherman with fear still darkening his expression after barely making it back to the shore when large waves got hold of his tiny boat. Anja and Stefan, a German couple that left everything behind to live from a small patch of land, now struggling with the hardships of farming. Cristina and Manuel, two friends hiking through Portugal, feet resting on top of the heavy backpacks, weary from the month long voyage.

Endless trail near Bordeira, Portugal (16mm, 1/350s, f7.1, ISO 200)
Ruins near Aljezur, Portugal (composite image, 16mm, 1/105s & 1/120s, f16, ISO 200)
A pair of agave trees tilted by years of wind, Sagres, Portugal (16mm, 1/400s, f7.1, ISO 200)
Pebble beach near Porto Covo, Portugal (16mm, 1/420s, f7.1, ISO 200)
Bee hives near Monte da Vinha, Portugal (2-picture panorama, 16mm, 1/350s, f10, ISO 200)

Animal encounters were more frequent but no less memorable. Unaccustomed to humans, many would come closer, eyes hinting at a mixture of fear and curiosity. A trio of goats that sprang from the side of the road, its boldest member holding its nose against my leg. A snake crossing the sandy trail, briefly stopping halfway to stare at me fumbling to get my camera out. A young horse, curious to get closer but aware that its elders were keeping afar. A large dog, half domesticated and half wild, uneasy with me passing next to its litter of puppies.

After: Young horse at Almograve, Portugal (16mm, 1/140s, f5.6, ISO 200, PPL3-Altered)
Cows near Odeceixe, Portugal (16mm, 1/420s, f6.4, ISO 200)
Curious goats near Monte da Vinha, Portugal (16mm, 1/420s, f6.4, ISO 200)

Reaching Cape Saint Vincent was a rude awakening. Big crowds chatted alongside food stands and street vendors, waiting for the sunset. A mass of cars and caravans scrambled for a place to park, filling the air with dust and engine noise. It didn’t matter though: the journey is often more important than the destination, and those five days have been unforgettable.

Town square, Porto Covo, Portugal (16mm, 1/350s, f8, ISO 200)
The lighthouse at Cape St. Vincent, Sagres, Portugal (composite image, 16mm, 1/320s & 1/1250s, f16, ISO 200)
Pedralva village, Portugal (16mm, 1/350s, f16, ISO 200)
Pedralva village, Portugal (16mm, 1/400s, f9, ISO 200)
Old house at Monte da Vinha, Portugal (16mm, 1/420s, f7.1, ISO 200)

A big thank you to Rota Vicentina, the group that maintains these trails. They also run an impeccably organized website with everything you need to know to do it yourself. In the meantime, I’ll leave you with the Fishermen’s Trail in 90 seconds:

 

Verne*

246 thoughts on “Five days alone hiking the Fishermen’s Trail”

  3. Thanks Jules for visiting rositatravels 😊 it is wonderful to meet like minded people who appreciates life .. and i love your comment on my blog Thankyou… happy hiking👍

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  7. Sounds like the Fishermen’s Trail is an amazing experience. You captured its solitary ambiance really well. Self-discovery and transformation only occur when we are open to it, however, the views on this trail certainly look like they could be inspiring to revelations and creativity.

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    1. I think you described it perfectly, it was indeed both a journey of inner and outer discovery, one I was very much looking forward to. Extrovert artists go to Florence, introvert hikers go the the Portuguese southwest coast 🙂

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    1. Thank you for reading! Thomas Edison was indeed right, 99% of it is perspiration 🙂 I lost count of the times I went over these photographs, tweaking and mending to get to how I remembered seeing these places. In some photographs I could get there, in others I fell short. But hey, there’s always the next post to improve 🙂

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  11. Absolutely loved your blog post. The pics of beaches and sunsets and lone animals you met. The solitude, was very inspiring. We all need such trips from time to time. How many would have the courage to do it? ☺I’d say it’s a gutsy one! I specially loved the video at the end!

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      1. 🙂 I sure would like to try it somehow…. ok, I’ll keep it in my bucket list. I read your post from my phone. Plan to see it all in my laptop to enjoy your pics. Take care and keep writing!

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    1. Indeed! For me hiking is a very recent but rapidely growing passion. I always thought it would be boring and physically less demanding than running or cycling, but it can be tough and a lot of fun! Plus it’s much easier to enjoy the scenery and take pictures. Thanks for reading Gian and/or Sheila 🙂

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    1. Thanks Nick! Indeed, the Azores and Madeira archipalagos give Portugal quite a spread of marine territory. By the way, these are spectacular places to visit: Madeira is more touristy, but personally I think Azores is even more beautiful.

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  20. Some beautiful scenes, it really does look like the kind of walk where you could embrace some alone time. I was born near the sea and walks or even short trips to the sea are special.

    I see we share a habit of making a little map / itinerary in our journal / notebooks to accompany our trips 🙂

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      3. Wow thanks, that’s so kind 🙂 yes I just got into journaling recently, found a nice community on Instagram to get inspiration #bujo #bujoinspire etc.

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    1. If there’s wisdom to be gained by travelling, you’re certainly on the right track: everywhere from Africa to Alaska, what a voyage! On the shower issue: the trail itself has no supporting infrastructure apart from trail markings. But there’s typically a town every 10 miles or so and plenty of (very cold all year round) ocean water in between.

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      1. cool, thank you for your quick reply – and also for staying tuned via following my blog! 🙂 i have been looking for a new theme for quite a while – 2017 should finally be the year when everything comes together!

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      3. I get so scared even when I see a dead snake, because then I know it’s snake territory and I am afraid of sitting down or sleeping in the grass.
        At least there is still Ireland, a snake-free island.

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  34. Amazing post! Thank you so much for sharing, I have bookmarked your page now. I am planning to do this hike S-N on my own as well in April. As a female solo hiker, I am quite concerned about safety, especially because this is a very empty trail. Can you please share some advice on safety/phone reception/campsites/particular warnings?

    I am ultra excited and thanks again for sharing!

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    1. Thanks for reading Monika! Portugal is generally a very safe place (it routinely makes the Top 5 of those safety global lists), and there was not a single instance on the entire trail I felt unsafe (well, apart from a couple of dogs :)). I believe the trail is equally safe for women (I crossed paths with a few female solo hikers), but the folks at Rota Vicentina (http://en.rotavicentina.com/) should be able to confirm that. Phone reception is generally very good, so you can use a tracker (e.g. Garmin LiveTrack, Strava Beacon) to let someone know where you are. I think you’ll have a blast, do drop us a line if you have any questions! 🙂 In the meantime, a quick note on doing the trail S-N: the predominant winds in this area blows from the North, so you would face a headwind most of the way. It doesn’t slow you down too much but personally I find it a little disturbing, because of the constant howling of the wind – Verne

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    1. Não faz mal, que eu percebo português! 🙂 Gostei muito do texto e das fotos, lembro-me de muitos destes sítios! Recordo em particular a descida íngreme onde a Zuca teve vertigens, porque quase fui parar lá abaixo quando me distraí para tirar uma foto 🙂 – Verne

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  38. Pingback: Is One Really the Loneliest Number? – welcome to izy news blog
  40. Pingback: IS ONE(1) REALLY THE LONELIEST NUMBER? – welcome to izy news blog

    1. Thank you Dina! I know what you mean: I didn’t progress much on the first morning, as I was constantly stopping for some shots. After that I disciplined myself thinking about the old days of film, where each photo had to be carefully selected 🙂 – Verne

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  44. I found this post under the article ‘Is One Really The Loneliest Number?’ and feel compelled to tell you that reading it filled me with a lot of hope and inspiration. Being extremely extroverted, for the first time, I am learning to enjoy my own company. I think that this kind of self-driven travel does a great deal for the soul and look forward to remembering your experience of solitude in the great unknown, as I one day am able to walk along an empty path with a smile too. There is just enough philosophy, introspection, style, length and depth in this piece for it to be read more than once, and still enjoyed from the first to last letter.

    Thanks for writing,
    Willow

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    1. In a way, I’m going in the opposite direction you are, so one day I can walk a crowded path with a smile too. Writing is part of that attempt to reach out and enjoy the company of others. Your feedback means it’s not a purely hedonistic exercise and that it brings joy to others too. Thank you very very much for that Willow. -Verne

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  47. Beautiful!

    I have gone on a few long-distance hikes, all of them in the UK so far, and I also loved to be alone and in nature. I packed an MP3 player with plenty of podcasts on history, philosophy, politics and so on because I thought I might be bored, but I actually never used it. The nature, the changing scenery, and as you describe the encounters of other people and animals were absolutely enough.

    I have been thinking of walking the European long-distance trail E9, which follows the coastline from the Baltic Sea, passing through Poland, Germany, Netherlands, and then along the English Channel and finally the Atlantic coast of France, Spain and Portugal. Your photos will provide me with the motivation to keep going all the way to Portugal.

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    1. Thank you Andreas! Same thing here: I can’t go for five minutes without looking up something on my smartphone, but on this trail I kept it tucked away. That E9 trail sounds amazing, I’m going to look it up. I dream of doing the Pacific Crest Trail – something quite unpractical if you live on this side of the pond – but didn’t think of researching something similar in Europe 🙂 -Verne

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      1. I am European, so I would also have the visa issue for trails in the US. And after traveling on other continents, I noticed what diversity we have in Europe (regarding landscapes, cultures, languages), which I think makes it more interesting.

        There are several of these European long distance paths, and I think they are a great way to get to know our continent. Living and working in Europe, you can also break them into different parts and walk a week or two every few months, depending on how much holiday you can take.

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      2. Well, I believe a tourist visa would let us stay there for 3 months: the PCT is 4,300km long, so that would mean 48km a day… definitely worse than snakes 🙂 -Verne

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  49. Thank you for this wonderful blog. Late to reply but greatly appreciative of your sending it to me. Thanks for liking mine regarding the Camino and best wishes from Jeanette d.

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